Best Local Indian Restaurant near Kensington, London W10

EVENING STANDARD

Comment on Palki – very good

Wed 22 Feb 2006 BY FAY MASCHLER

Open daily noon – 02:30 pm and 06.00 pm – 11.30 pm
A meal for two with wine, is about £55 excluding service.
A HELPFUL reader wrote to me about palki, his local Bengali Restaurant in Golborne Road “the tastes are clean and delicious ….. there are a variety of interesting and different dishes at extremely reasonable prices. ” Naturally, I hurried along and, when choosing the main course, concentrated on the section of the menu entitled Chef’s Recommendations.

Shatkora Gosht is lamb cooked with shatkora fruit, also knowns as Bengali lemon, which comes from Sylhet region – as do many Bangladeshi chefs working in London. It contributes an intriguing, slightly sour flavour to the curry.

Knowing that there is an enterprising fish shop in Golborne Road made me choose Samunder Ki Khajana, a spicy mix of scallops, king prawns and crabs, and I was glad I did. The waiter give particularly pleased that we had chosen it. Chicken Sylhet flavoured with tamarind was a more well-defined assembly then the usual Chicken curry. The cooking is quite oily, but in an authentic rather than off putting way.

Among our first courses, Zinuk malai mussels in their shell cooked with garlic and spices featured those monster mussels which I find less appealing than their smaller brothers. Tandoori crab – crabmeat stirred with spices and fried – was fierce and good and the Onion bhaji freshly fried and feathery light. Chapatis also had a nice immediacy to their preparation.

Staff are absolutely sweet. I can quite see why my correspondent is pleased that palki has opened next door. I am pleased that I am off to India for the next two weeks.

Reviewed by: Jodie McMullen

Average price for two with beer: 35
As most of Ladbroke Grove’s Indian restaurants are morphing into dodgy fried chicken joints, take a stroll up Golborn Road the and discover a piece of India’s finest.
The Venue

A little on the out ofthe way side, this venue is well worth the walk. At the top end of Golborn road, with views ofthe design ‘classic’ – Trellick towers. It is cosy and clean, with only eight tables in total.

The Atmosphere

The overtly friendly staffwill treat you as a long lost relative, returning for Christmas dinner. Candle light, light purple walls, low playing authentic Indian music and the front floor to ceiling window, adorned with fairy lights, make this place feel cosy and lively all at once.

The Food

With over 25 years experience in the Indian food business, the owners have got it spot on! They cleverly cook with minimal oil and no ghee which makes for a healthy and non greasy curry. Inventive touches such as the coriander, mint, garlic and chilli yogurt sauce- which accompanies the pappadums, ensures this family run restaurant is ahead in the menu stakes. If you like food on the spicy side, then it may be best to speak up when ordering as some of the curries need alittle kick. The meat dishes however are an absolute must. Dishes such as the Lamb /Chicken Shashlick (sizzling, barbecued pieces of soft lamb or chicken with onion, capsicum and tomatoes) and the butter chicken will have you wanting a doggy bag to savour the following day. There is a well stocked bar at the back of Palki, but there is nothing better than a nice cold ‘Cobra’ beer to wash down your steaming hot curry.

The Last Word

The problem with Indian food normally is the grease factor luckily Palki offers thetaste without the ring of oil. One of the last great Indians to adorn the streets ofLadbroke Grove.